It was Haute couture season in Paris, and with 29 shows taking place throughout the city the week of January 27th, we got to see many magnificent looks from the fashion houses.
Haute couture is unlike any other fashion shows- typical shows, like Fall/Winter shows, are for ready-to-wear, sell-able clothes. While the collections are designer, aka high quality, they are made for selling and wearing (typically on celebrities). Haute couture collections are not ready-wear. These shows are for designers to show off their creativity, and to flex their skills. Rather than practicality, the clothes focus on details and craftsmanship. Haute couture is considered wearable art, so it’s nothing to be worn in everyday life- it’s the best of the best.
Only a specific set of houses can make Haute couture collections, as it is legally protected by The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Each Haute couture show, one in January and one in July, are managed by specific rules. Every fashion house that participates must: have an atelier (a studio) that employs fifteen full time staff and twenty technical workers, make custom garments for private clients with one or more fittings, and they must present a collection with no less than fifty designs.
With this in mind, this year was one for the books. 29 official houses participated, each with their own unique looks.
Matthieu Blazy did it once again- his show was fun, whimsy, and the right amount of crazy. The runway was set up as a maze of giant mushrooms and light pink trees, with guests sitting in between these floor pieces. The show was centered around the idea of birds, and the themes of nature and bird-like qualities were prevalent. The show started with delicate sheer garments, and evolved into fun, feather-like twill dresses and bushy tops.
Similar to the Chanel show, Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, was inspired by wildlife for this show. With peacock feather skirts, lizard-like tails, horned shoulders, and bird necklines, Roseberry brought to life the creativity of Schiaparelli. He showed the art side of fashion- it doesn’t just have to be nice clothes, but inspirational artwork as well.
This show was in tribute to Valentino Garavani, the founder of the brand, after his passing this year. The show was set up as a peep show- every guest was given a small window to look through as the models presented the clothes. With an abundance of ruffles, bold colors, and insane pleats, the show was almost a protest against the fashion industry, shaming the obsessiveness with fashion.
Created by Giorgio Armani’s niece, Silvia Armani, the show was a turning point for the brand. This was her debut since the founder, Giorgio, passed away last year. The collections consisted of lots of green- supposed to represent jade. It featured lots of pleats, fun styling of suits, and hidden sparkles.
With Haute couture being one of the first major steps for the brand, it did not disappoint. Led by 26-year-old director Steven Doan (the youngest designer to be invited to Haute couture, and the first from Vietnam), the looks featured extravagant gowns with delicate embroidery and lots of sparkly accents. The silhouettes and fun take on couture sets up the brand and the designer for future projects.
